Bouldering Outdoors Across the Seasons: Why Conditions Matter More Than Grade

The same boulder can become a completely different problem for you on different days. How can this be? Well first off, as we all know, there is the effect of temperature on friction of rock with skin. And then of course there is the temperature dependent effect of skin on fingers to consider. So in the end, just because it is 5C outside and you know the problems are rated at a certain level at that temperature, that does not mean that you will be able to send them at the same grade in August as you can in October.

The temperature window

5 to 12° C – Best friction for most rock types. 12 to 20 degrees: good for moderate grades. 20 to 25 degrees: workable but skin softens. Skin on fingers is very sensitive to temperature and can start sweating at 25 degrees and above which drastically reduces friction. The skin on your fingers can become so sensitive that even relatively easy bouldering can become almost impossible to climb. Below 5 °C: friction is good for open handed moves but it is really cold and your hands will be likely lose feeling quickly.

The humidity factor

However the low humidity in cold weather also means fantastic friction. High humidity in moderate temperatures however will again result in soft skin and a slippery rock. The worst of all worlds is therefore found in cold and humid weather. However this is the famous “send” weather and you occasionally read about in boulder mags. Confirmation required.

The seasonal patterns

Bouldering in Autumn (October to November) – in temperate countries the best time for bouldering on boulders. Winter (December to February): The periods with low temperature and dry air are the best time for low level bouldering. Spring (March to April): Variable, yet very good in dry years. Summer (June to August): worse for bouldering than other disciplines in most regions. Try to boulder at high altitude.

The skin management

Wearing skin in outdoor bouldering is far more wearing than in gym climbing.

Trim fingernails before sessions. File calluses to prevent tearing. Apply skin care cream the night before sessions. Tape over hot spots before they become flappers. Wait until the skin becomes hot to the touch and then stop climbing with that hand or foot before an open sore or flapper develops.

The summary

For every super fit climber who can send all day long there is a climber who, for a short window of time, can send everything in a season due to the conditions of the skin and the weather. It’s a timing thing, plan your trip to coincide with the season, stay on top of the bouldering conditions and be realistic with what the rock can give you on the day.

Practical Considerations

Most aspects of adventure travel can be planned, prepared and subsequently have excellent memorable outcomes if sufficient preparation has been completed before departing for the trip. One of the overlooked but major sections of preparation that should be given ample time and thorough attention is the detailed organization of ALL logistical arrangements i.e. how will you deal with an unexpected piece of gear failure when miles from civilization; or in the event of being delayed for a day or so; or worse, having a serious accident with require emergency evacuation; and have you made suitable arrangements to notify others back home in such event. And have you confirmed all aspects of your trip, the previous day, not on the morning of departure! That simple error was mine, and the resultant problems for several days, could have been prevented by spending an extra 30 minutes the previous day checking a few final details.

The Insurance Question

In addition to physical preparation for your outdoor adventures, make sure that you have the correct travel insurance. While most standard travel insurance policies will cover the average tourist, most will not cover you for activities such as trekking at high altitude, scuba diving, hiring of motorcycles or other adventure activities. It is very important to read the fine print of any policy you consider and to pay the extra for adventure activities that interest you, as the cost of these add-ons before you depart will be a small fraction of the cost of repatriation to your home country in the event of an accident.

The Local Operator Factor

When choosing an operator, it’s not just about the reviews of previous travelers on travel sites. Rather, you need to research the quality of local guides who have extensive knowledge of the local trails and experience in managing various conditions. It is also helpful to have a conversation with previous clients in order to get a more in-depth sense of what to expect from your trip.

The Takeaway

The best adventures are those that have been well prepared for – on every level – and have room for maneuver when weather or other circumstances change. Sticking to a strict itinerary can actually have the reverse effect.

The Equipment Question

Adventure travel equipment decisions are often more important than people give them credit for. Many pieces of gear function just fine in moderate weather, but can fail spectacularly when the conditions get bad. It is almost always better to rent the best available gear at your destination than to bring subpar gear from home and discover its flaws while on trip.

The Physical Preparation

Another consideration for Adventure Travel is the Physical Preparation of the Traveler. Yes, many tourists travel long distances to adventure in foreign countries but after a day or so they are exhausted and the following days are merely survived. And the reason for this is that they underestimated the demands of their itinerary before they left home. They would have been fine with several months before departure but by the time they left they had declined to a level that would allow them to ‘endure’ the travel but not enjoy it. Also, the same preparation that allows the traveler to prepare for the physical demands of the adventure also allows them to prepare and test their gear that they plan to bring on the trip. This could save a lot of misery down the road. (I once arrived in Paris a day early and was glad that I did. Missed my connection.)

The Worst-Case Plan

Most problems that occur on trips can be dealt with by having thought of them in advance. An hour or two spent on a worst-case scenario prior to a trip can save weeks of hassle in case of an emergency.

The Mental Game

Don’t underestimate the mental strain of adventure travel! Long hikes across several days of rain, and a group divide on the fifth day of trekking and whether or not to keep going are just a couple of scenarios where mental preparation is more important than any physical endurance. The long stretches of seemingly endless dirt road between bouldering spots, tired and wanting a break; the several hour hike back to the start; the steep incline at the beginning or end of the day are also situations where physical fatigue can rapidly turn into mental exhaustion. By reading all about a travelers’ journey and the worst bits of their time on the road, you will be fully prepared for any eventuality – and the trip will live up to the preconceived images and higher expectations you’ve had all along.

What Local Operators Wish You Knew

Most local guides and tour operators have one piece of advice for adventure travelers: they will never fully understand the cumulative effects of fatigue while traveling abroad. Therefore, it is essential to follow local advice with regard to conditions on the day and to let experienced guides and tour operators manage the itinerary and decisions in order to avoid mistakes that can occur when you overrule local knowledge. In the vast majority of cases such mistakes are made by travelers who have done their research but have not sufficient experience with similar travel arrangements and it is well to remember that local guides and tour operators have run their routes hundreds if not thousands of times.