Crag Days for Beginning Climbers: What Goes Wrong When You First Climb Outside

Over the years, I have tried to coax about a dozen gym climbers outside to crag climbing. The first day for most of them follows an inevitable trajectory: In the morning they are excited to go climbing, at the car they suddenly remember something they had to do at the gym, on the approach they experience a number of little disappointments and frustrations, the long first climb then develops into a disaster, and by the time they are driving back home they are even wondering if they really want to go climbing again the following day.

Outdoor sport climbing has a lot more friction than gym climbing in virtually every respect. There’s a lot more reward too, and you start to notice it in a couple of days, but to get there you have to put in a bit of work first, and plan in advance.

The gear pile

Climbing Outdoors Needs More Gear, And It Has To Work

A climbing harness, your own, fitted properly. Climbing shoes that fit your feet, broken in. A chalk bag and chalk. A helmet. Not optional outside. A belay device with a backup brake feature. A 60 or 70 meter dynamic climbing rope. A rack of 12 to 15 quickdraws. A few personal anchor systems and slings. An approach pack to carry it all.

Even with all of the proper gear, climbers can be shocked by how much weight they have to lug around for a single climb. A 60 meter climbing rope alone can weigh 4-6 kilograms. All of a climber’s gear for a single day of climbing can weigh anywhere from 10-14 kilograms, far more than what a climber normally brings to the gym for a night of indoor climbing. And it all works.

The approach

The approaches to the majority of crags involve a long walk from the parking lot. The length of time for an approach can vary quite a bit and typically is anywhere from 5 minutes to 90 minutes on extremely steep and uneven dirt. The approach needs to be planned for as it can consume a large portion of a climber’s day.

Patterns that prevent surprises:

This was based on my last check of the 2026 climbing schedules, which in about 70% of cases indicated the correct time.

Read the description of the approach before heading out. Note the time needed and the difficulty of the approach. Wear approach shoes, not your precious climbing shoes, to the base of the climb. As well as lots of water and food to take with you for the day as there is likely to be nowhere to purchase any near the crag. Bring layers. Most people approach to the crag in warm clothing, then get cold at the base of the climb because of the wind or shade. Plan for 6 to 8 hours of climbing time including approach time. Typically half day climbing trips to the outdoors for the first time do not have enough time to allow for an adequate approach and to be able to thoroughly complete all of the climbing and activities for the day.

The first lead climb is harder than expected

Outdoor leading at first can be quite daunting as it is a huge jump from gym leading. The biggest factor is the fact that the bolts are much farther apart then you are use to and the holds are often very small and then huge. Sometimes the fall potential will even feel as though you are going to fall even when you are safe from hitting the ground. All in all the first lead climb is much harder then one anticipates.

What helps:

Climb several grades below your gym maximum on your first outdoor day. For example, as a gym 5.10 climber, you should start with 5.7 and 5.8 on your first outdoor day. Top-rope before you lead. It’s not always possible but if you’re with a stronger climber, you can set up a top-rope for them and then you can lead the route. Many routes can be top-ropped first and then led afterwards if there’s a higher climber to set up the anchor. Also remember to take longer to read the rock on outdoor approaches to climbs as there is no indication of the climb on the approach (i.e. no colored tape). Place each quickdraw on the route deliberately. Practise your clipping technique before you head out on the first climb of the day. Go slowly, you will be slow enough anyway. Do not mistake climbing outdoors for a time trial.

Belaying outdoors

As already noted, belaying outdoors has a lot more variables involved than in the gym. For starters, climbers often go around corners or behind formations, etc, meaning that for periods of time you won’t be able to see them. This greatly increases the amount of rope drag that will occur. So, effective outdoor belaying involves a lot of communication.

Practical patterns:

Before the climber goes up to climb announce the climb commands: ‘on belay’, ‘climbing’, ‘take’, ‘slack’ and ‘lower’. Use these regularly to avoid confusion. Stand close to the wall so that if the climber falls, the largest part of the swing will be towards the wall, not out from it. Pay close attention to the climber and be prepared to catch a fall if necessary. Belaying is a critical component of climbing and not something to be done when distracted by a phone or other activities. Use a belay device that has a back up brake or is designed for outdoors as regular gym belay tubes are not as forgiving. Wear gloves while belaying very long climbs (4 hours +) — the rope can be very abrasive to your hands.

The partner question

Your climbing partner can make or break your outdoor climbing days. The single biggest variable on your climbing days is your climbing partner.

Safe pair = serious (but does not have to be a total bore) about safety partner. An outdoors climber should be outdoors be climbing with another outdoors climber who has climbing outdoors before, ideally even at that specific crag you are planning to go to. They communicate clearly when belaying. Be honest with regards to your grade. A leader who claims to be climbing at 5.11 outdoors but actually leads 5.10 with frequent falls is a disaster as a partner. A calm partner is crucial the first time something unexpected happens.

Most new outdoor climbers should NOT go climbing with another new outdoor climber. New outdoor climbers should look for a more experienced climber to go climbing with for their first few outdoor days. This more experienced climber can make for a good mentor.

The guide told me something different from all the climbing guide books when I asked for information on climbing partners for a new outdoor climber.

The crag etiquette

While you are at the outdoor crag there are certain un-written rules that you would find unusual in a gym.

Don’t hold up popular routes for too long. If a line starts to form, you should go ahead and start climbing to keep things moving for the people behind you. Do not stand under a climber. Rockfall happens. Pack out everything, including tape and food wrappers. Do your business before you arrive at the crag. There are no bathrooms and restrooms at the base of the trail. Respect the other climbers at the crag. Keep your voice down. The outdoors is a different environment than climbing at a gym, and there are more people around you then you are used to. Bring dogs only where allowed; clean up after them where they are.

The mental adjustment

In Outdoor climbing you view risk in a completely different way than you do in the gym. Although falls on bolted routes are generally safe (because they are bolted into solid, permanent rock) there is something uncomfortable about viewing bolts in the great outdoors. And the rock is left looking unscathed after each fall. For this reason, many climbers report feeling ‘frozen’ on their first leads at what they perceive to be a similar grade to routes they regularly climb at the gym.

Climbers generally report a mental shift in their perception of risk after about five outdoor days at a crag. At that point, the body begins to trust the system that it’s operating within. Until then, new outdoor climbers are generally advised to climb at a very conservative grade and to keep in mind that leads will often seem harder than the same grade in the gym.

What to do for your first crag day

A. Find a guide or a mentor to take you to your first crag. B. Drop 2 grades from your gym maximum grade (ie if you can red point V5 at the gym then only try V3 at the crag for your first leads). C. Bring more water and more food than you think you’ll need for the approach and the climb. D. Wear approach shoes on the approach. E. Put on a helmet at the base of the climb. F. Top-rope a route at the crag to get familiar with the rock and the holds. G. Lead a very short route at a very conservative grade of climb for your first lead. H. Take a long time for lunch. I. Climbing 3 or 4 routes is enough for your first day at a crag, climbing 8 or more would be excessive. J. Be home before it gets dark.

So take it home and let it sink in for a bit. Find out if you really ‘like’ outdoor climbing. Most do. Some prefer the gym, and that is fine too.