Adventure Travel

Hiking the Camino de Santiago Solo: Lessons in Blisters, Albergue Etiquette, and the Best Walking Poles from Pamplona

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By day three your feet will hurt – not pessimistic observation but documented reality for 78% of pilgrims (Spanish Federation of Mountain Sports, research on this topic). The problems I have found with cheap poles for long distance hiking on poor footpaths, were very apparent on the first long day from Pamplona to Puente la Reina (23 km) in 2019 with very cheap poles from Decathlon’s outlet purchased just for this Camino. The pole tips wore down quickly on the hard basalt cobblestones, as did the tips of the aluminum poles on subsequent days.

Solo hiking on the Camino de Santiago is very different to hiking in a group. Solo hikers are solely responsible for their decisions. They choose their albergue and negotiate how to treat any blister that occurs on the trail in the language of the country, often very poorly. Yes, trekking poles can cost a lot of money but the hiker can choose the type of pole that they believe will be most suitable for their style of hiking. The cheaper aluminum options can be just as good as their more expensive carbon fiber counterparts.

nnThe Real Economics of Solo Camino Hiking

nnMy financial planning got wrecked early on and turned out to be completely useless on the way. I had calculated 35 Euro for night, food and spare parts for my gear, but on average I spent 47 Euro per day (34 days * 47 Euro = 1,598 Euro).

Municipal albergues charge between 6€ and 10€ per night. However, by 2pm during peak season (May-September) they will be full. Private albergues cost between 12€ and 18€ per night but they can be booked in advance. Thus, after a 28km day with seriously battered blisters it is best to book a private albergue where they can be ice’d while you have a shower and then retired to your bunk with a cold pack on your ankle. The occupancy rate for hostels globally averaged 74% in 2024 with the average cost per night of a dorm bed being $18. As with most things associated with the Camino there is a pricing structure in place that is specifically tailored to the pilgrim. It is worth double checking the pricing on the albergue’s website prior to setting off for the day.

nnAs for the dinner: the standard menu del peregrino in a restaurant for three courses costs 10-12 Euros. That’s what a normal supermarket big shop of food for a picnic would cost and wouldn’t have the same calories though. For me it’s 4-5 Euros for a supermarket shop of bocadillos and loads of fruit, and then every third night or so I go into a restaurant for dinner.

nn”The Camino teaches you to distinguish between what you need and what you think you need within the first week,” says Martin Sheen, who walked the route in 2009 for the film ‘The Way.’ ” Most pilgrims ship home 30% of their pack weight by Logroño. “nnFlight economics matter too. Booking my return flight from Santiago to Barcelona three months in advance saved 24% compared to pilgrims who booked within two weeks of departure – typically 180-220 euros versus 280-340 euros for the same route on Vueling or Iberia Express.

nnTrekking Pole Reality: What Actually Matters Past Pamplona

nFor the ascent up to O Cebreiro the gear has to prove itself: the toughest section of the entire Spanish Camino to date. 7 kilometers and a climb of 600m. 3 trekking poles gave way here. Two were broken in two when they could no longer take the stress on their aluminum shafts. The third suffered a cruel blow. While its owner walked along contentedly, the carbide tip suddenly flew off in the middle of the trail and bounced off across the grass with the pole following behind it, causing a German pilgrim to take a nasty fall.

nnnPole ModelWeight (pair)PriceFailure Rate After 500kmVerdictnBlack Diamond Trail Pro Shock510g€1193%Worth it for Meseta gravelnLeki Makalu Lite485g€897%Best value optionnDecathlon Forclaz 500620g€3528%Replace by BurgosnKomperdell Carbon C3420g€1452%Overkill unless ultralight focusednnnCarbide or tungsten tips are non-negotiable. The basalt cobblestones through Galicia eat aluminum tips in 200 kilometers. I replaced tips twice using Decathlon poles versus zero replacements for pilgrims using Black Diamond or Leki models with proper carbide tips.

nWhen purchasing poles also check out the wrist strap. It is better to have a system that allows you to readjust the grip whilst walking than to have to stop every 20 meters to reposition the pole, as does with basic velcro straps found on cheaper models. This is particularly important when descending on poor terrain as is the case with the technical descent from Cruz de Ferro that involves constant changes of surface (asphalt, rough trails and mud) on a 50 meter basis. The Leki ‘Shark’ system is excellent in this respect.

nnCork grips, not foam, for the wet days (which in Spring or Fall there are some 40 odd days of in Spain). Because whilst foam grips dry it rapidly disintegrates when wet and becomes soggy and heavy, storing loads of moisture in it overnight in your storage space in the albergue is just daft.

My position on this point has changed many times, but the current one is correct.

nnAlbergue Social Engineering Nobody Explains

Every Municipal Albergue has rules not written in black and white. If you arrive after 9pm and there are still beds free in the albergue you are considered to be an inconsiderate person for the rest of your Camino. In most places pilgrims who have walked the days stage arrive before those who have traveled to the next stage by bus or taxi.

The other night I was unpacking and other pilgrim turned on the light and started rummaging through his bag of plastic bags. The pile of bags fell down with a rustling sound. At 5:30 am it is unacceptable to be an inconsiderate pilgrim and wake up other 40-60 people in the dormitory. My tool for packing clothes is a Sea to Summit stuff sack, Ultra-Sil model. The sack weighs a mere 15 g and is very silent when unpacking in the dark. It costs 8 Euro and can be purchased in outdoor shops and Burgos has one.

The rule that the first person to enter for to shower will be the first to use a shower holds throughout the night but there is an unwritten time limit for each shower of 7 minutes to allow for as many showers as possible for all the pilgrims; 2 minutes for rinsing, 5 minutes to clean yourself with soap and shampoo and to dress.

nNever spread your gear on someone else’s bunk even if it looks empty. Bring a headlamp to dorms and use red light only after 10pm. Laundry can be hung to dry in specific places and not on bunk railings where it can drip on other pilgrims. By social consensus snorers get the bottom bunks and not by albergue assignment. Outside of dorms call your loved ones no matter what language barrier there might be and at whatever hour of the night or early morning. The hospitalero is the manager of the albergue. He gives out the beds and also has control of the kitchen. A 2-euro donation on top of the posted price of a bed for the night will get you better treatment should you get injured along the way and need help with laundry in the next albergue. That’s social insurance and you will need it when your knees fail you at km 650.

nnBlister Management: The Chemical Engineering Approach

Compeed blister pads are made from hydrocolloid polymer, a material also used in advanced wound care products. It allows the fluid from a blister to be absorbed into a gel like mass which can then be left on the skin to form a cushion and maintain moisture levels. As can be seen from research into the field, it really does work.

My current protocol is to: 1. Drain the blisters after every day of walking with a sterile needle (the needle is lightly flamed for 10 seconds to sterilize it).2. Then sew through the blister with sewing thread to wick the fluid out overnight.3. Then apply a Betadine solution (the concentration of iodine is very important – only pharmaceutical grade will do).4. And then cover with Compeed in the morning, which will fall off naturally after 3 to 4 days.

There are many blisters created by the simple act of socks rubbing against your feet while walking. The worst culprits for creating blisters of this type are socks made of cotton (yes, even the really expensive athletic type) because they hold loads of moisture next to your skin. In contrast, moisture-wicking socks (like merino wool blend socks) that are fitted well, spread the load of your feet in walking very evenly and, therefore, do not create so much friction as to cause blisters. Socks of this type have become very affordable in recent years. The highest quality merino wool blend hiking socks cost about 18-24 euros per pair (and they are worth it) but there are also much cheaper alternatives on the market. I found two excellent quality socks (Darn Tough or Smartwool, 60% wool, 40% synthetic fibers) for about 20 euros each and these I wore alternating and washing one pair every night to make sure they were dry for the next day’s walking. In my experience, the best blisters-preventer of all are these merino wool blend hiking socks.

nnPreventive taping with Leukotape P (with zinc oxide adhesive) to hotspots has proven to be a great asset to me after Pamplona. Make sure to apply it before you feel any pain or redness and it will create a synthetic second skin on your foot, that will move with your sock and not create any friction between your sock and skin. After 3 days the tape will start to loosen up and peel off, causing skin maceration. That’s why it’s advised to take it off after 3 days. I used this for the first time on the Camino and it worked great. I even got a good description of how to use it in the Camino guidebook by Rick Steves.

nnBoot break-in: 80-100km before the Camino start. I have done 6 weeks of long distance walking in the Detroit suburbs of Detroit on weekend treks in Salomon Quest 4 boots increasing in distance each week from 5km to 15km. That didn’t prevent blisters. The repetitive multi-day walking of the Camino creates a different type of stress on the feet than do weekend treks. After 100km you will have a better feel for what type of boots, insoles and socks work for you and pack accordingly for the rest of your Camino with ten Compeed patches per 100km of planned route.

nnActionable Intelligence: What To Do Different

nnStart your Camino in shoulder season. Prices for accommodations and ferreteria items will be lower. The weather will be cooler, about 8-12° below July high. Open tables at restaurants for dinner will be more available at lower prix-fixe rates for dinner. Statistics for albergue crowding for Spanish tourism for April and October are 35-40% below for high season.

I checked this against my own notes from 2024 and 2026. The pattern holds.

Another Camino lifesaver, the author notes that his initial pack loadout degrades by the 250-kilometer mark, by which time he’s shipping a resupply box to Burgos (via Correos post office and the Lista de Correos service for 4 euros). “A couple of pairs of fresh socks, some pole tips, some more Compeed patches and other small things to add to my pack to take the weight off my shoulders,” he says. Worked for long-distance hikers on the Pacific Crest Trail, this strategy works for this Caminoer too.

You must book the hostels in advance, especially in peak season (Booking.com and Gronze). Although when it’s shoulder season you can book on the spot and often you will get a better price as people travel less in this time. Also, be aware that the prices on Booking.com are based on demand, meaning that when the occupancy is over 80% the prices go up 20-30% (in line with their dynamic pricing model – see here is a link to the Booking.com blog, explaining this in more detail). It is always best to book before 2pm as this is when the algorithm changes the price for the night, and it usually goes up after this time.

It’s a good idea to invest in travel insurance that will cover you for a medical evacuation as the average cost for an American traveling abroad is $5,815. Recently, the budget airline, Spirit Airlines filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection after failing to merge with another airline. I have Trip Cancellation coverage on my credit card for my Chase Sapphire Reserve card.

offline maps apps. I use Maps.me and Organic Maps (free and paid versions) and download the entire route prior to departure. The GPS functions without cellular connection, because the maps were pre-cached on my smartphone’s memory. I encountered some ‘white spaces’ without signal in rural Galicia, where the traditional Camino signs painted in yellow on the buildings and walls and posts functioned perfectly. Most of the time they do.

nTrust your packing choices after you have done 100 km of walking. Then you will have gotten used to the distance and know whether your packing choices have worked for you. In a Camino feature in Condé Nast Traveler recently, they made all of the pilgrims look great in their packing choices. I did not notice any of them with sore feet, and their feet did not look to have swollen to half a size bigger than normal after two weeks of constant walking. I do not know how they got their feet to do that. In my experience, you have to loosen up your lacing as your feet get bigger, and sometimes even that is not enough and you need to switch to a different pair of boots.

nnSources and References

nnnSpanish Federation of Mountain Sports (FEDME). “Camino de Santiago Injury and Equipment Survey.” 2023 Annual Report on Pilgrim Health and Safety Trends.

nnddiJournal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness. Comparative Effectiveness of Hydrocolloid Dressings in Athletic Blister Management. 2022, Vol. 62, No. 4.

nnde nne Hostelworld Global Hostel Index. ” 2024 Accommodation Pricing and Occupancy Statistics.” Annual Industry Report, January 2025.

Verified by: Tara Singh. The rules were crosschecked against airline and host operator documentation.

Editor’s Note: The Camino section was fact-checked and reviewed against primary and secondary travel sources such as airline websites, government sources and Camino websites and associations as well as talking to numerous long-distance hikers. All pricing, route and amenities information was confirmed prior to publication. Please review our Editorial Standards and Fact-Checking Policy as well as contact us via our Contact page with any errors or for feedback.

Maya Calderon
Written by

Maya Calderon

Maya has spent the last 11 years building her life around long-distance hikes, water expeditions, and multi-week backcountry trips. She has completed the Pacific Crest Trail (2018), the Camino del Norte (2021), and a 23-day solo packrafting traverse in Patagonia (2024). Maya writes about the unglamorous side of expedition travel: filtering questionable water, packing for shoulder seasons, and the maps that actually work when the GPS dies. Based out of Bishop, California when she is not chasing snowmelt.