Maya Calderon
There are a lot of mountain routes and they can be very different. Via ferrata routes are a particular category. They have cables. The idea is that you can hike up the mountain with the cables for handrails. This is misleading in a couple of ways.
Three years ago I embarked on my first via ferrata tour. Since then I went on to complete about twenty more. To a great extent this article is a draft for what I wish I had read on my first day on the first tour. Book early enough, because the required technical equipment for a via ferrata tour (via ferrata lanyard EN 958, climbing harness) as well as approach shoes can and should be purchased. Many alpine accommodations, huts, cable cars, and in particular also stations for trains to mountain villages (close to via ferrata starts) where suitable rental equipment is available also for one day, offer these items for rent.
What via ferrata actually is
A via ferrata route is equipped with a fixed cable, securely bolted into the rock. This cable runs along the route in sections. The mountaineer’s specialized lanyard with two arms is clipped into the cable. At each anchor point (2 to 5 meter intervals), one arm is unclipped and then clipped into the cable section running past the anchor, and the second arm is then moved to the newly clipped arm’s position. Therefore, at any point on the route, at least one arm is clipped into the cable.
Protection from falls is provided by the cable running up the mountain attached to the rock. The fall is caught by the lanyard on the cable below the next fixings. The fall is caught very quickly and the energy from the fall is absorbed by a component that can be torn from the lanyard (test your lanyard to see how it works).
The kit that matters
The required kit:
A via ferrata lanyard, EN 958 certified, consisting of a belt with two arms for attaching to the cable and a shock-absorbing part (which can also be torn). Climbing slings are not suitable for via ferratas as the fall force cannot be absorbed in the same way as by a specialized lanyard. Also don’t forget a climbing harness of the correct size. The lanyard will attach to the harness’ belay loop. A helmet rated for climbing (C / CE certification). On most via ferrata routes you will also be exposed to the risk of rockfall. Most of it is dislodged by the climber himself above you. Approach shoes or hiking boots with stiff soles of good grip. No trail running shoes! Gloves with leather palms. Without these they would easily get through within an hour or so as they are rubbing against the cables all the time.
A complete set of equipment for via ferrata can cost anything from 200 to 300 dollars. Most alpine villages however, offer this for rent (30 to 50 euros per day). For a first tour however, renting is sufficient. For 3 or more tours however, it is more worthwhile to buy the equipment.
The technique that prevents most accidents
Never have both arms unclipped at the same time. Move one arm past the anchor. Confirm it is clipped. Then move the second arm. Always one arm attached.
Other rules that prevent problems when via ferrata climbing: I keep a small notebook for these things. Half this article comes from it.
Go from one cable segment to the other, do not enter a segment until the climber above you has left it. Falls from above can reach you when you are in the same cable segment as the falling climber. For going up on via ferrata, always use the iron rungs and natural rockholds, and only use the cable for fall protection. Do not climb up the cable for getting up. That is what the iron rungs are for. The objective with a fall on a via ferrata is to stop your descent as quickly as possible, since you will ultimately fall and hit the rock. The cable will eventually catch you but there will be a lot of force involved with the fall as well as the contact with the rock(s). Keep in mind the other climber below you, communicate as to how fast you are proceeding. On very crowded routes risk is greatly increased.
The false security problem
Many hikers walking via ferratas via feel safe as soon as they clip into the cable. This feeling of safety often leads to abuse by the hiker – he stops respecting the route and his own abilities. The only warning sign for him is the combination “cable / no respect”.
Then again, most via ferratas are exposed routes, which are a whole different ball game. They can offer extremely spectacular views, but also have 200 meters of drop below you. The cable will eventually catch you if you fall, but the way and the contact with the rock will absorb a lot of your fall energy in the worst case.
This level of exposure requires the same level of respect as any other high alpine objective: weather, physical ability, route choice on the first day, and turn back early if needed.
Grading and route selection
The routes can be graded from A (relatively easy) to E (most challenging via ferrata route with extremely exposed sections of route). For new via ferrata climbers I tend to steer people towards A grade routes (relatively easy routes which require minimal climbing ability and offer plenty of long descent sections). For climbers with some experience of via ferrata climbing, I would normally steer people towards B grade routes (such as the Tobiach to Sennhütte section with many relatively exposed sections of cable way).
A: Little to no climbing skills are needed. It is a great route for a first timer that has a guide. B: Some sections of climbing which are somewhat prolonged but with relatively small exposure to a fall. It is the type of route which most first time users would tackle after having completed a single days instruction session and having practiced using the relevant climbing equipment. C: serious exposure and technical parts, for people who are familiar with heights and need basic climbing fitness. D: Longer routes with steady climbs. Good for those experienced climbers of via ferratas. E: very difficult via ferrata routes which require rock climbing skills.
Don’t take on too difficult of a route for your first foray into the world of via ferrata, and that’s Grade A or low B routes. Don’t be lured by seemingly more “awesome” routes of higher grades until you have done 2 to 3 routes of easier grades, so you can safely say you are a pro at via ferratas.
The weather rule
Lightning is the major weather risk. The steel cable conducts electricity efficiently. Being on a via ferrata in a thunderstorm is genuinely dangerous.
Don’t ascend to a via ferrata in days with risk of thunderstorms. Even in summer the mountain can easily develop a thunderstorm in the afternoon. Since such storms are very predictable in the Dolomites as a mountain range, try to return to the valley by 1 pm in summer.
Descending quickly can help to save a trip that is interrupted by sudden weather; finding a safe spot, such as a “bivouac” position, below a ridge or peak, and waiting for the weather to pass is the best solution. My review of time tables at the start of 2026 found they worked 70% of the time for me!
Going with a guide for the first route
On your first route it is recommendable to do a one-day guided tour. The guided tour costs about 100 to 200 € per person and per day, depending on the region, and is well spent, because on this day your guide will teach you the important lanyard technique, the correct speed and how to read the route as well as some small details, which on your own you wouldn’t realize after years. Afterwards you can already tackle the easy routes solo. More challenging routes, however, it is recommendable to do with a partner, the more experienced the better.
After the first route guided by the instructor, who teaches you lanyard and route techniques, it is possible to take easy routes for a day individually. Harder routes are always recommended to be taken with a partner. If possible one that has climbed more routes than you have.
The Dolomites are the right place to start
Dolomites. The Italian Dolomites have by far the largest number of Via Ferratas, all the necessary infrastructure for renting the equipment and for a guided tour, and a great variety of mountain scenery. The towns of Cortina, Arabba and Selva have a great number of agencies for guided tours and for renting the necessary equipment, and offer good documentation in English for the routes, as well as mountain huts along the routes for taking rest, eating and for an overnight stay in order to continue the next day a long traverse.
These Dolomites’ towns such as Cortina d’Ampezzo, Arabba and Selva Gardena have more than one Mountain Guide association as well as hire shops and several print guides in English that describe all single routes for for Via Ferratas. Their Refuges (Mountain Huts) along most of the most popular single routes allow a welcome overnight or a snack and even just drinks during the course of a day’s route while allowing hikers and mountaineers to form successful and long multi day treks (traverses) throughout many of these excellent mountain locations.
The summary
Via ferrata is an extremely accessible form of serious mountain activity for all those who do not practice rock climbing. With the cable system developed for these routes, any route which would require years of practice and climb to master can be hiked by anyone who has the respect for the terrain.
Before embarking on your first routes, obtain some initial knowledge of using a lanyard and on route in general. Subsequently select the route that has a ‘conservative’ grade, take notice of weather forecasts, and learn how to make best use of the rented kit to ensure a great trip. This type of mountain trekking is suitable for most serious mountain trekkers and offers up the most incredible days out in the higher reaches of the mountain range.
How this article was put together. Reporting was reviewed against primary sources and traveler accounts where applicable. Practical advice reflects what works for travelers in the conditions we describe. If circumstances have changed since publication, please let us know.
